Anybody do this? Or knows where I can find the info necessary to work it through myself.

I have a Queen Anne lock on my fowler - I have fired thousands of rounds through it - this weekend at a rendevous - it only went off about 10 percent of the time. Just a klatch not a flash.

Keith

folks at Chambers sent me this info

Good info.

I hope it was public domain and not under copyright!

LD

If that lock is a Chambers lock, those instructions will work. His parts are cast and those instructions will not work well for most other steels. Cheers, Bookie

How long will a frizen last? Do they wear out and need re-hardening or replaced or will it out last me? I shoot several times a week.

Most, if not all production locks use cast parts. Chambers internal lock parts are 01 tool steel. I don't know what others use for the internals, but most of the better locks use 1095 for the frizzens. 1095 frizzens should be quenched from around 1500° in warm thin oil, but not motor oil, or water. Then tempered at 375°. Canola oil or peanut oil at 130° would be a better choice. 1095 is classed as a shallow hardening steel, but in the thickness of a frizzen, it should harden all the way through, and last for many years of continuous use. I see where many advocate the use of Kasenite on these frizzens. Nothing wrong with that, but it is not necessary, and if done, the frizzen should not be water quenched. Those who have water quenched a 1095 frizzen, and not had it crack, are very fortunate. If one is determined to use a water quench, it should be in the form of a strong brine. The salt reduces the chance of cracking, and acually cools the steel faster and more evenly than plain water, but the risk is still there.