I'm thinking about refinishing the stock on my muzzleloader. I was going to use stripper to remove old finish. Will the stripper cause the wood to swell making it difficult to put lock back into stock? Also same question for when I put new stain on stock? Any suggestions on how to remove old finish without stripper? thanks
Can you tell what finish is on it? If it is simply boiled linseed oil over nitric acid blush don't refinish. Just wipe on some new coats wiping off what doesn't absorb between coats. If it is tung oil or varnish, you could carefully scrape it off with real sharp shaped scrapers. I've never used stripper so I can't really answer those questions. Sand paper would take forever and a huge supply of paper on any hard finish. It loads up fast, and if you continue with loaded paper you put gouges in the wood. Why do you want to refinish? You might consider renewing instead. How bad is the finish now?
pistuo deo lalo
Thanks for the reply. After looking closer at the finish its not that bad. Think I am going to leave it alone
I had a beat up TC Renegade stock and a bunch of random parts, I decided to make a gun. The stock looked like someone had used it to bat rocks with.
I used the citrus type furniture stripper to get the old finish off. It took two applications of the stripper but I ended up with completely stripped stock. I can't say if the lock swelled any while being stripped because I reinletted to the new profile and put in a L&R RPL lock.
I used a steam iron to remove most of the dents, removed the excess stock wood and made proper lock panels.
I put about 5 coats of Chambers oil finish on the stock and was pleased with the result.
Beer is proof that God loves us,and wants us to be happy-B. Franklin
I'm getting ready to salvage a Jap Bess stock....
I use Citristrip and paper towels along with gloves and eye protection. I like it a lot better than other strippers. When I'm done removing the finish with the paper towels, I rinse off remaining stripper solution in the bathtub with water and a soft scrub brush.
Then any and all cracks are repaired with epoxy. Corrections to repairs or other flaws in the stock are then attended to with tools followed by sanding. Yes you may have some small swelling where the wood to metal areas are located. Very minor scraping is normal to correct this if needed. I also check any of the holes for pins to make sure they are clean and clear. IF the stock has any dents, I place a very damp wash cloth over the dent and hit the wash cloth with a hot steam iron to cause the wood to expand out of the dent.
Following that the stock is stained. I like Fiebing's leather stain for gunstocks. Once this has dried for two days, I apply the boiled linseed oil to the stock with a piece of 4-0 steel wool. It's like cotton and does a great job of knocking down the "whiskers" formed in the wood during stripping and rinsing. The stock gets a coat of BLO each day for five days, followed by once a week for the next three weeks.
Then the gun is reassembled, and is ready to go.
It's not what you know, it's what you can prove
Very nice job, Eric.
*Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.*
|Powered by Social Strata|