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Factor
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I ain't a bit sure if I've ever begun a thread in the gunsmithin' part in my whole life. Howsomever, bein' as a tad-mite of gunbuilding interest has crept into my feeble mind, and seein' as how I'm a lover of old fashioned hand tools and old fashioned ways, here's this: does anybody know how to cut a barrel channel with wood chisels and such? If so, could you shed some light on it?

Thankee,

Fiddlesticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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swamped or strait barrel ?
both are done basicly the same way . you start with a center line on your stock .
from there i cut a channel for the bottom flat so that the barrel will start to set down into the wood . trim the 45 angles tell the side flats come down . then scrib those and start dropping the whole barrel down .

a faster way is to use a drill and chisels . In fact thats how i mostly do it these days .
start with your center line . then draw out the width of the barrel . so now you have 3 lines . IE center line and one on the left and right of that . measure from the top flat down to where the bottom 45 start . Subtract 1/16th . Now using a spoon bit that’s 1/16 narrower then your barrel width . Drill down to your bottom 45 measurement. Do that the full length of the channel. Now come back with a standard bit . Measure down from the bottom 45 to the bottom barrel flat and subtract 1/16th . Using the holes from the spoon bit as a guide , drill down to that measurement. Now you do the rest with inletting black and chisels . Or if a strait barrel , the careful use of a scrapper
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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PS with your spoon bit . make sure the tip isnt to long or it will drill to deep . also go slow or you will get chip out.
also the above is dont on a plank prior to trimming down the forstock . if you do it after you have trimmed it down your very likly to get blow at oand ruin the stock
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
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Thanks Cap'! I'll be studying this over.

Fiddlesticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Sticks, Hope that barrel fittin is working out for you.
If you need a little encouragement maybe this pic will help.
All these I built myself with the last one being the CVA hanging at the bottom. I'm already waiting for parts from Track for my next build.

 
Posts: 1452 | Location: Good Ole USA of course! | Registered: 15 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Fiddlesticks,

Here is a link to some instructions I posted on the web. Hope they illustrate how to do this with chisels and knives.

This was a rifle I built for my grand daughter.

Link: http://www.hootalrifleshop.org/youth_jg_rifle.htm

Hoot AL


hootalrifleshop.org
 
Posts: 1400 | Location: Rolling Hills of Iowa | Registered: 26 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
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Thanks a million Hoot Al! I'll be studying that like an hawk watchin' a field mouse.

Jehoshaphat, 'Eye, I doubt if I could ever build anything that pretty. Thanks for the inspiration.

Fiddlesticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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yeo i do it much like hoot owl . but i start in the center and work out
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
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Hey Hoot, I like those gauges you made, too.

Fiddlesticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
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Addording to the late John Bivins , Mark the center line on the two side flats of the barrel and draw file a very subtle draft just shy of the center line on both sides no more than one to two degrees.
Now you have a slight draft as you do on the lock plate and makes the barrel inlet a bit easier. Works for me. Bob


 
Posts: 11 | Location: B.C. Canada | Registered: 25 November 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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I think probably you should realize fiddlesticks that we all do things somewhat the same . But different LOL.

As to the lock. I never inlet the lock tell after the barrel and tang are fully inlet . Drilled and pinned .
I let the barrel dictate the lock position . Which in turn dictated the triggers . Which dictate the butt plate ……..

So when building from a plank , I start out with rough layout drawn on the plank so as to have the grain ran properly through the wrist . I then cut the stock out and square both sides back to the nose of the Comb .
Next I draw my centerline on the stock . This line goes all the way around from muzzle to but plate . From heal to toe and back to the muzzle ..

Then I come back and draw out the barrel bed using the X and Y center line of the barrel
That gets cut out and squared to the sides .
Next I draw my centerline back to the stock area i just cut out .
I then inlet the barrel as I described in the prior post and down to the centerline of the side flats of the barrel .
Once the barrel is proper , then I then fit the breech and tang to the stock .
Note: the breech fitting to the barrel is done before I even start on anything else . it’s the very first thing I do .
Now I set my cast line to the stock and adjust the centerline of the tang to that cast then inlet the tang .
Next comes the RR channel .
With a strait barrel I measure down 3/16 from the bottom flat . mark my line down the side of the stock . Then I measure half my RR thickness and mark that line measured from the first .
I then trim out the forestock for the RR. Followed by squaring the bottom up with the sides. Remark the original center line of the stock . Then using a gouge of the same width as my RR I start my RR channel . which then gets completed to proper depth by using my drill and inletting black . Then I drill the RR hole back to the end of the barrel bed .

Then I set the pin locations and pin the barrel to the stock .
Taking my RR drill I flip it around and insert it back into the channel and tape it into the stock . What this does is re-enforce the channel and RR hole so I can start inletting the lock with less worry of accidentally breaking through with the lock inlet .

I then marl the breech face on the side of the barrel . That mark dictates the flashole or bolster placement . Which in turn dictated where the lock must go .

Now I measure the width of the lock as it will set to the barrel and add 1/16 .
That measurement is then transferred to the stock and the sides are brought down to that measurement prior to the lock inlet being started .
This allows me to only have the lock plat 1/16 below the wood when the lock plate is fully inlet .
this my seem deep to some . but what it allows me to do is block sand the mortice down to where i want on the lockplate , giving nice crisp lines for the lock mortice .

Once the lock plate is inlet , I drill my lock bolts and finish inletting the lock .
Next are the triggers , which are again dictated by the lock .
That followed by the butt plate which gets placed at the desired distance for the shooters pull . And aligned with the cast line .

I should NOTE that this is process is different if your dealing with a pre-carved stock which has a partially inlet lock mortise . In that case the lock placement is already dictated . In that case the lock defines both the barrel placement and the triggers
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
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Cap', Hoot,and Brownie,

Thanks a million; this is fascinating.

Hootie, after having seen with your own eyes my ineptness along these lines, at Bookie's shop a few years ago, I'll bet you're flabbergasted that I'm even thinking on such things! Haw! Haw!

If I can find a right piece of wood, even a short one, I'll practice cutting a barrel channel. You guys stick around close in case my hands get to shakin' . . .

Afraidtograbachisel'sticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Hey 'Sticks, iffen ya can hold a chainsaw real steady ya could get thet barrel channel inlet done in jest a jiffy!

Regards, xfox


The forest is a wilderness only to those that fear it, silent only to those that hear nothing. The forest is a friend to those that dwell within its' nature and it is filled with the sounds of life to those that listen.
 
Posts: 532 | Location: Bitterroot Valley | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
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I'll git you fer thet . . .

Pullin'onthechainsawcord'sticks


As long as there's Limb Bacon a man'll eat! (But mebbe not his wife...)
 
Posts: 4816 | Location: Buffalo River Country | Registered: 23 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Hey Sticks, How's it going on that barrel channel?
 
Posts: 1452 | Location: Good Ole USA of course! | Registered: 15 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
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Ok here's how it's done. First get a 4 ft pierce of angle iron 2 get a two by four.3 lay the to by along the angle iron . Clamp the flat.next place the stock tight an square against the to by. Measure from the angle iron to center of the gun stock. Then run your table saw the length of your stock.to your set length for tournaments to breach.Seems weird but ,it's better than a router an it Einstein.takes about one hour an it's done


Been into muzzeloading for almost 40+ years fairly new to scratch building. But prescribes just seem to take all the frustrations out.So to me it's not as much fun. Would like to meet some. people on here to learn more. Maybe in time. Recently retired so have time to learn. Special thanks to Hoot AL for his advice..Good site
 
Posts: 11 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 19 May 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
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Left out one tidbit.make two small shims to place . Between the saw blade an the angle iron make them according to your barrel width an depth.Practice on a scrap piece. It really is quick.Then a lite scraping an it's done..No$;?:?";+ it works


Been into muzzeloading for almost 40+ years fairly new to scratch building. But prescribes just seem to take all the frustrations out.So to me it's not as much fun. Would like to meet some. people on here to learn more. Maybe in time. Recently retired so have time to learn. Special thanks to Hoot AL for his advice..Good site
 
Posts: 11 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 19 May 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Fiddlesticks lot's of good advice here.I can only encourage .If I can do it anybody can.The only thing that I have come to realize is that I like working from a squared side and not from the center.


I never have been much for drinking the kool-aid.It's not in my nature.
 
Posts: 336 | Location: Central Pennsyltucky | Registered: 12 January 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
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To double. Good advice. REALLY works for me.


Been into muzzeloading for almost 40+ years fairly new to scratch building. But prescribes just seem to take all the frustrations out.So to me it's not as much fun. Would like to meet some. people on here to learn more. Maybe in time. Recently retired so have time to learn. Special thanks to Hoot AL for his advice..Good site
 
Posts: 11 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 19 May 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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