Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Hardening a Lock Plate
 Login/Join
 
Greenhorn
posted
Recently, I built a northwest trade gun using an R. E. Davis Tryon lock. I got to thinking that it was rather easy to drill and tap the lock plate for the lock bolts. In other words, the lock plate is not hardened.

I wrote to Davis and asked them if the plate was hardened. They confirmed that the plate was not hardened, but the internal parts are. The plate is 8620 mild carbon steel. They do not recommend heat treating the lock plate, but said that I could do it if I wish.

The lock fires like a dream and is very easy on flints. I would hate to have to replace it in the future because the plate started to wear.

So, should I heat treat the lock plate, or am I just worrying too much about nothing?

Paul
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 20 January 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Factor
Picture of volatpluvia
posted Hide Post
Paul,
I never hardened a lockplate. And some of my locks went on for thousands of shots. I never saw any indication of wear. Even using only WD40 for much of that time. It is not a real lubricant, as much as it is a protective agent. And yet it seemed to do the job.
There are some really good lubricants that you can use on the pivot points of your lock. I believe this would serve you well.
A lock is not like the bearings in a gasoline engine where the action is continuous for long periods of time and there is a great bit of heat buildup.
Others will tell you differently, so you must weigh the thoughts.
But if the company that made the lock does not recommend hardening, I would let that be a considerable weight on the side of not hardening.
León


pistuo deo lalo
 
Posts: 3714 | Location: Acatlan de Juarez, Jalisco, Mexico | Registered: 22 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Pilgrim
posted Hide Post
I wouldn't take the chance. What if the plate warped or cracked? I think I would just keep it oiled, not worry and enjoy burning some powder.
 
Posts: 82 | Location: north georgia | Registered: 12 April 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of captchee
posted Hide Post
No real need to harden it past what it is . As long as the lock has been tuned and polished so as to have no parts marring the plate , then there IMO would be no reason to think the lock would start having issues unless there was some damage done to it . IE you dropped it or torque down the lock bolts to the point they begin to warp the lock plate .
You could in theory , get wear in the tumbler hole . But frankly that’s a very long time down the road and a whole lot of shooting will have to go on between then and now .
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
posted Hide Post
So I am worrying about nothing. Good to know and better than the alternative.

Thanks for the advice. I'll just keep it oiled and enjoy like I have been.

Paul
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 20 January 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hivernant
posted Hide Post
Color Case Hardening looks good but I cannot speak for its historical use before the 1860s. Its also hard to do.
 
Posts: 129 | Location: Southern California | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of GreyWolf
posted Hide Post
Color case hardening is definitely older thean the 1860's - it shows up on many English flinters from at least the 1790's.

On the other hand case hardening without colors (a grayish finish usually) is far older and all of the original English made locks (about 300)from the early 1800's I've examined were case hardened, so while it is not "necessary" per se it is the historically correct way to make a lock, but the plate needs to be blocked properly to prevent warping. In my own experience it does help not only preventing wear but smoothness in the movement of the parts (when properly polished) is increased.


aka Chuck Burrows
 
Posts: 616 | Location: Southern Rockies | Registered: 03 April 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of captchee
posted Hide Post
I would agree chuck that the harder surface would increase the resilience of the polish and thus a smoother parts movement. Especially concerning a lock made from low grade steel
Original locks were made of iron and thus greatly benefited from casing . Today however they are made from steel castings , well for the most part anyway .
What they all IMO benefit from is a good polish . That polish can be had without hardening and as long as there is no damage to the lock so as to induce a part to drag , then there should be no ill effects to the lock
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Payette ,Idaho | Registered: 23 November 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of Hoot Al
posted Hide Post
I understand your research Chuck on original rifle and pistol locks from that era. But I concur with Captchee, today's locks are as good as the iron hardened locks from the earlier era.


hootalrifleshop.org
 
Posts: 1399 | Location: Rolling Hills of Iowa | Registered: 26 October 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of GreyWolf
posted Hide Post
While I agree that most of todays locks when properly polished/finished are much better than those in the past and most people won't notice, but there is still a measurable difference of less friction when hardened - it's has to do with the coefficient of friction (can't help it I grew up in a machine shop and my Dad pounded this stuff into my hard head and for me personally I know there is a difference not matter how small - yes it is called being anally retentive!)


aka Chuck Burrows
 
Posts: 616 | Location: Southern Rockies | Registered: 03 April 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Greenhorn
posted Hide Post
All original locks were hardened. Except for a few made by certain gun makers in America who were considered amateurs.
That doesn't mean you need to harden the lockplate to have a good functioning lock.
But it will function better if you harden it correctly. The only way to harden it correctly is to case harden it using the pack hardening method. Few people today are equiped to do so. Even then there is a danger of warping the plate if not done correctly. I always harden mine because I want to preserve the integity of engraving. If you are only doing one don't bother. I do dozens of them but only for myself. Some guys will do for customers. Dave Race of bellingham wash. might do it or capchee might be able to. Expect to pay a hundred dollars or so for a good job. Don't bother with any of the hardening compounds suggested by some. You will have a lot of oxidization to contend with. Let the arguement begin. Leave me out.
 
Posts: 16 | Location: Baker City, Oregon | Registered: 21 June 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


2014 Historical Enterprises, LLC