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Picture of Dphar
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike R:
I have used artist grade linseed oil for decades as a stock finish. It ranges from colorless to pale yellow in the bottle and is not used to "color" the wood--I use other stuff for that, such as aqua fortis. It is not for everyone and I do not recommend it for "production" line making of guns to sell--takes a bit longer and more care in finishing. I apply multiple very light coats with finger tip, steel wooling between dried coats, until I get the depth finish I want. I have used as many as 50 coats, but don't advise that. I ended up taking some of that back off. Linseed oil will darken with age on the stock, especially with aqua fortis stain. I use the artist oil right out of the bottle. I have read that it does not harden--poppycock! If it did not how would artists paint ever dry and hold up? It has been used for centuries in oil paints--and on gunstocks.


Harden is a relative term. Compared to modern finishes it does not get "hard".
If it did oil cloth would be too stiff for use.

Dan
 
Posts: 156 | Location: South Central Montana | Registered: 27 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Hivernant
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quote:
Originally posted by Pete G:
I have settled on Minwax Tung Oil Finish, which I believe is probably more of a modified varnish. It seems to be a thinner version of Tru Oil, which makes it a little better for hand rubbing. After about four or five coats I call it done. Then after every cleaning I do a wipe down with Linseed Oil, then wipe back with a paper towel. Gives a very durable and authentic looking finish.


Pete,

I finished a test piece of wood from my last build with Formby's Tung Oil Finish and set it outside to dry. I proceeded to forget about it and left for vacation for two weeks. It rained very hard several times while I was gone, but the test piece looked just fine when I returned. This convinced me that it's a good durable finish, resistant to water. I like to mix it 50:50 with BLO though. It seems to give the wood more depth than with just the Formby's alone.


bioprof
 
Posts: 122 | Location: South Dakota | Registered: 10 June 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Booshway
Picture of Fatdutchman
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Tried and True "Varnish Oil" does work, but it is too soft, I think, and more resins could be added (which requires heat, but not really boiling heat), but while you're at it, you might as well go ahead and boil it....

It does seem to work fine as an oil finish, but as always with any linseed oil finish, apply it VERY sparingly with each application and let it dry, dry, dry in plenty of sunlight before even thinking about adding another LIGHT coat.
 
Posts: 363 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 30 January 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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