Sometime hopefully in the near future I will finishing my stock on my new build. I read from someone(a good source) that you should start with BLO first with good amounts, then stain to my liking, then finish with tung oil(more durable finish then BLO) as it will close the pores of the wood and not allow oils and such from your hands to penetrate as BLO would. Just looking for a second opinion or confirmation as I havent built but a couple rifles and im still paranoid about a screwup.

Hey 50, Welcome to the Campfire. Now, about your question, I probably won't be much help. I don't know what BLO is... The finish I put on my guns' stocks is done with stain on the bare wood, then at least a half a dozen applications of Tru-Oil. Tru-Oil is basically a varnish and that is likely a similar finish to what the old guns received. The glossy finish can be rubbed out with fine steel wool if the aged look is desired. Well, like I said, I probably wasn't much help. Shoot sharp, Mike

Mike, BLO is boiled linseed oil. I have used the stain and truoil finish, has worked OK, just looking for something a litle bit different, more durable.

Some would argue that BLO is not more durable. I have used it [or rather artist's quality linseed oil available at art supply stores] to finish several stocks and have been satisfied with it. It is a tedious slow process to build up a proper finish with BLO--one reason many custom builders do not like it. I have also used True-oil on modern stocks and it has been satisfactory. Some prefer Tung oil. I believe Eric Kettenbergs's site has some info on period stains and finishes.

quote:

Originally posted by smk50:
Sometime hopefully in the near future I will finishing my stock on my new build. I read from someone(a good source) that you should start with BLO first with good amounts, then stain to my liking, then finish with tung oil(more durable finish then BLO) as it will close the pores of the wood and not allow oils and such from your hands to penetrate as BLO would. Just looking for a second opinion or confirmation as I havent built but a couple rifles and im still paranoid about a screwup.

BLO is only stock finish if you home cook it the stuff you buy is paint thinner.
I would try some Chambers oil if I were not making my own. To late to type up the instructions. See http://www.codesmiths.com/shed...techniques/oilcloth/ though I don't add any color to mine. Just some limestone (acid killer speeds drying and keeps it from rotting cloth if making oil cloth) and about a tablespoon of Japan drier per gallon of store bought *boiled oil*. I use a deep fat frier and heat on high for at least 30 minutes after it gets hot. DO IT OUTSIDE. BE CAREFUL. Bottle when cool.
If you mix real boiled oil with Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III about 50-50 you get a soft varnish that is better than tung oil.

Dan

You can buy real boiled linseed oil as Dan described from Tried and True oil or most artists supplies sell it under the name of stand oil - both are true heat polymerized traditional linseed oils.
You can also buy the Tried and True Oil Varnish which is oil mixed with rosin - one of the few commercially available mixes that closely imitates the typical period oil varnishes.
Use LIGHT coats and let it get plenty of sunshine and air movement for the best drying.

Welcome 50, I never use off the shelf stuff. My old grandpappy taught me this, and I still finish my rifles the same way, and have for almost 40 years. I only finish the rifles I build one way. I first stain the wood with alcohol base stain or a home made stain. I let the stain dry overnight. I cut BLO 50/50 with turpentine. I hand rub the stock with the solution and 0000 steel wool very lightly. I let it soak in for about 30 min. then wipe with all the excess off with a soft cloth and let dry for 12 hrs. I do this twice a day for 10 days. AM when I wake up, PM before I go to bed. After 10 days, I repeat the process for 20 more days but use a soft cloth to apply the solution. As the 30 days progresses, the grain of the wood will become inhanced, and the finish will become more shiny. After the 30 days you will have a beautiful hand rubbed, durable finish on your rifle that is weather proof. The oil really soaks into the wood and protects it. I know how this sounds, and I'll all likley get blasted by the other members. However, If you could see me do this, you would never finish your rifles any other way.

Colonial Riflesmith, want to see "blasted"? How about this. I am not recommending this process as a stock finishing method; I'm just relating it because it actually WORKED!

The stock is "hardwood". After scraping and sanding I dissolved some steel in a weak acid solution. I'd tried a wood stain but it didn't darken the stock so I wiped on the acid solution. Three coats turned it slightly gray; a start. I found some black paste shoe polish and got wild. I rubbed the polish in, wiped it down and brushed & buffed. The stock was now a nice, even chocolate brown. I then polished it with a bit of Johnson's paste furniture wax. Had to rub really hard to get any shoe polish to rub off. Then over the next few days I rubbed on a few coats of True Oil and VOILA! The stock is now a nice chocolate brown with an attractive, subdued sheen. You can even see a little bit of "grain" coming through.

This was an experiment that worked on my stock, not a standard method. It does go to show what all you can do with what's at hand.

Nope!!!! Mouse spit and fly swet equal parts put on it the full moon with a beaver tail.This has to be done while walking around a black spruce stump dressed in your persona!!!
But from time to time I put steel wool in vinegar,tar in mineral spirits and start from there.or walnut shells or even try some of them posted here.Depends on the wood and how I feel that day.

I hear ya!

Everyone finds their own processes.
But if I spent 30 days on a stock I would be suicidal.

Dan

anyone try "fuming" a stock with amonia??

quote:

tar in mineral spirits

I have used that a time of two I think it is a period method of staining/finishing a gun and was called asphaltum, I put it on and let it dry then wooled it down to get the look I wanted, I added some BLO and Spar varnish once and it came out pretty good for that "gun that's been around a while look"you can leave more or less of the dark color to suit your taste as you bring it down, If adding more finish later use very small amounts and rub till dry so it does not dissolve the tar and get sticky on you.

There are probably a hundred recipes for finishing a gunstock. Some are pretty straight forward, some IMHO, are a real PITA.

Unless you want to do a lot of experimentation, I would just use Chambers oil finish or Tried and True. They work, they look good, and they are easier to apply and get a good finish than most of the other methods.

God bless

quote:

Originally posted by GreyWolf:
You can buy real boiled linseed oil as Dan described from Tried and True oil or most artists supplies sell it under the name of stand oil - both are true heat polymerized traditional linseed oils.
You can also buy the Tried and True Oil Varnish which is oil mixed with rosin - one of the few commercially available mixes that closely imitates the typical period oil varnishes.
Use LIGHT coats and let it get plenty of sunshine and air movement for the best drying.

Stand oil IS NOT the same as boiled oil and is made in an entirely different manner. It is meant to be almost transparent for mixing artists oil colors. This is not desirable for gunstocks. A darker boiled oil give better color and depth to wood.
Dan

quote:

Originally posted by Dphar:
Stand oil IS NOT the same as boiled oil and is made in an entirely different manner. It is meant to be almost transparent for mixing artists oil colors. This is not desirable for gunstocks. A darker boiled oil give better color and depth to wood.
Dan

Dan at one time stand oil was made (and still is at times in a different manner} but most of the so-called stand oils sold today by art supplies are in fact heat poylmerized refined linseed oil - here's just one example of a commonly available stand oil from a major art supplier -
http://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-stand-oil/

quote:

Gamblin's Stand Oil, manufactured by heating a pure refined linseed oil, is a heavy oil that wets pigments well. Stand oil is linseed oil that has been polymerized by heating. It is thicker than cold pressed or alkalai refined oils, and has almost no tendency to yellow. It is useful for glazing, and helps to eliminate brush marks. AP non-toxic.

So my directions were correct based on the suppliers, but I should have noted that it must state heat polymerized linseed oil.
And yes I've used Gamblins, True Oils, and made my own by boiling raw linseed oil which you can also get from art supplies or from health food stores as pured flax seed oil. They all have worked quite nicely over the last 40+ years. I quit boiliny my own once I found Tried and True although I do add at times additional rosin for a harder varnish when wanted and/or lead as a drier which gives it a reddish tinge.

I have settled on Minwax Tung Oil Finish, which I believe is probably more of a modified varnish. It seems to be a thinner version of Tru Oil, which makes it a little better for hand rubbing. After about four or five coats I call it done. Then after every cleaning I do a wipe down with Linseed Oil, then wipe back with a paper towel. Gives a very durable and authentic looking finish.

quote:

Originally posted by GreyWolf:

quote:

Originally posted by Dphar:
Stand oil IS NOT the same as boiled oil and is made in an entirely different manner. It is meant to be almost transparent for mixing artists oil colors. This is not desirable for gunstocks. A darker boiled oil give better color and depth to wood.
Dan

Dan at one time stand oil was made (and still is at times in a different manner} but most of the so-called stand oils sold today by art supplies are in fact heat poylmerized refined linseed oil - here's just one example of a commonly available stand oil from a major art supplier -
http://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-stand-oil/

quote:

Gamblin's Stand Oil, manufactured by heating a pure refined linseed oil, is a heavy oil that wets pigments well. Stand oil is linseed oil that has been polymerized by heating. It is thicker than cold pressed or alkalai refined oils, and has almost no tendency to yellow. It is useful for glazing, and helps to eliminate brush marks. AP non-toxic.

So my directions were correct based on the suppliers, but I should have noted that it must state heat polymerized linseed oil.
And yes I've used Gamblins, True Oils, and made my own by boiling raw linseed oil which you can also get from art supplies or from health food stores as pured flax seed oil. They all have worked quite nicely over the last 40+ years. I quit boiliny my own once I found Tried and True although I do add at times additional rosin for a harder varnish when wanted and/or lead as a drier which gives it a reddish tinge.

Its still colorless and thus must be made in a different manner than a boiled oil prepared for stock finish. Store bought "boiled" linseed oil is not heat modified or so I am told the driers are simply mixed cold.

Dan

I have used artist grade linseed oil for decades as a stock finish. It ranges from colorless to pale yellow in the bottle and is not used to "color" the wood--I use other stuff for that, such as aqua fortis. It is not for everyone and I do not recommend it for "production" line making of guns to sell--takes a bit longer and more care in finishing. I apply multiple very light coats with finger tip, steel wooling between dried coats, until I get the depth finish I want. I have used as many as 50 coats, but don't advise that. I ended up taking some of that back off. Linseed oil will darken with age on the stock, especially with aqua fortis stain. I use the artist oil right out of the bottle. I have read that it does not harden--poppycock! If it did not how would artists paint ever dry and hold up? It has been used for centuries in oil paints--and on gunstocks.

smk50, Trot yourself on up to Ft. Atkinson, this weekend. There will be quite a few re-enactors there who can help you out. One in particular that I'd suggest you speak with is the tinsmith. He's a modern gunsmith but, he's worked at Williamsburg, in his younger days, and I know he's built quite a few muzzleloaders, himself. You'll find that these guys are all pretty friendly and know their stuff! If you make it up there, say "Hi" to Dean and Tim the blacksmiths and all the rest of the gang.