Then I sanded the underside smooth and laid out the lines to accommodate the ram rod groove.

S_RR_Groove_Layout_.jpg (46 KB, 142 downloads) RR G layout

Then it was time to gouge the groove out and sand it smooth.

S_RR_Groove_Gouge_.jpg (51 KB, 132 downloads) Gouge

Then the hole was drilled. It ran pert dern straight for a kid! I also inlet the tang, but have not taken a photo of it yet. May do that yet this evening. Not bad for two hours, eh? Cheers, Bookie

S_RR_Hole_.jpg (43 KB, 149 downloads) Hole

Oh yeah. I almost forgot. Also sliced off the bottom of the belly after drilling the hole. Here is a shot to give you an idea of the size of the wrist while it's in the square. I'm hoping to keep the fowler down around 3 pounds total weight.

S_Wrist_Thickness_.jpg (42 KB, 188 downloads) Wrist Thick

Hey! What gives Bookie!
You cant just get us all hooked on the build project and then stop posting pictures.
Its been almost 2 whole days man.

get to work!

I got the shakes here. I do not want to go into full blown withdrawl!

buck

OOOooooohhhhh Boys! This is gonna be a good'n. Why Ole' Bookamundo is fixin' up a FLINTLOCK with a brass pan. What a doozie! Couldn't get none too close asn Bookie had them bar dawgs kepin guard on the parts and that pecular empty box. I couldn't quite make out the labil. If I had to guis the letters that were left from what I could see thru the dawg slobber was Choc___te M__n P__.

Mornin', Buck! I'll have some more photos for you one of these days. I've had so many irons in the fire that it ain't bin perty. Then Angus come over and bugged me to death talking until the wee hours, an' you notice that he mentions an "empty" box in his post? Well it shore weren't empty when he come! See you soon. Bookie

Been busy, fellers. I've been working on a small Siler flint lock kit and had to modify it like I always do. Didn't want to use that becky lock. It was just too small. I put a brass pan on this thing and made 20 other modifications. Works like a champ. Took about 8 hours to get this far on it. This first photo shows the raw lock on it's outside.

S_Modified_Lock_Outside_.jpg (59 KB, 199 downloads) Lock out

This shot is of the inside.

S_Modifed_Lock_Inside_.jpg (56 KB, 165 downloads) Lock In

Since the barrel is tapered, the lock has to go in at an angle. You can see the taper since I slabbed off the side of the stock.

S_Tapered_Panel_.jpg (37 KB, 168 downloads) Tapered

I found a genuine Toad Hall thimble kit and here it is.

S_Thimble_Kit_.jpg (59 KB, 167 downloads) Thimble kit

Last for tonight are the three upper thimbles. Got to get to bed early. Hoot Al is coming over in the morning for another gold panning expedition. Cheers, Bookie

S_Upper_Pipes_.jpg (60 KB, 172 downloads) pipes

Bookie,

Did you mill out the brass pan or was it made from a casting? Did you make it yourself? Looks nice.

Hi Bioprof! That pan was given to me many years ago by a young Jim Chambers. He was working on a brass panned lock project. Took some effort to get it to fit the small Siler though. Thanks for the compliment. Cheers, Bookie

How does one cut these threads so the flat of the barrel and tang align?

http://muzzleloadermag.infopop..._Plug_Installed_.jpg

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Chief Kicks a Hole in the Soup:
How does one cut these threads so the flat of the barrel and tang align?


One solution is to make the breech plug from round stock and then machine to the dimensions.

This is 5/8 plug after its fitted to the bottom of the threaded hole.
If the external fit is good then its ready to turn in and machine the tang. The breech face should be polished to 400 grit during the final few thousandths of fitting. It should seal all the way around.


If fitting a store bought you reduce the face of the breech plug and the rear face of the barrel till it indexs.
It is best to use a lube like STP and turn in in and out 4-5 times as it will crush fit to some some extent. Just do not force the plug against the rear of the bore too hard or you will get a burr at the end of the bore.
It s usually necessary to file the thread back om the breech plug to allow for the hole not being tapped full depth.


No further use of text or photos without written permission.
Dan

quote:

Originally posted by Bookie:
Since the barrel is tapered, the lock has to go in at an angle. You can see the taper since I slabbed off the side of the stock.

So you don't like inletting the front of the lock 1/8" below wood level?


Dan

Thank you. Too simple for old man to figure out.

She's starting to look like a genuine Bookout gun. I can't wait to see the finished project. Thanks for the progress pics.

How'd the panning go?
Ken

Fellers, I just been busy lately. You know how it is....the wife, the VA, the wife, walk the dogs, the wife...but it's time to get back in the saddle for a couple of days. Ken, thanks for explaining the breech plug games for me. And as for you, Brother Dan, look closely into my eyes....dumb, not stupid! Inletting that lock more'n an eighth of an inch is so-so. I like at least 1/2" or more! Cratered lock panels are where it's at! Got another series of photos for you to examine. The first is soldering a brass under lug to the barrel. That long curved clamp is an idea I managed to swipe off'n Packdawg. Cheers, Bookie

S_Soldering_Lug_.jpg (49 KB, 99 downloads) Lug clamp