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Hivernant
posted
I have been working S-L-O-W-L-Y on a tvm kit, not being much of a craftsman and all.

but i'm pretty close to wood and metal finishing time. I'm thinking about a cold browning. what do you all like? and for wood, I like a rather dark finish, for a plain maple stock any stain preferences? probably will stay with tru-oil for final finish.
thanks
 
Posts: 125 | Location: eden, utah | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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Hawg what kit are you working on ? Any pictures ?


The best thing about owning a dog is that someone is happy when you get home.
 
Posts: 959 | Location: Alabama | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hivernant
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southern poor boy. IF, if, if, I can figure out how to post a picture I might when it's done.
I may have to hunt down one of them new fangled kids born in the 90's to help me.
 
Posts: 125 | Location: eden, utah | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Booshway
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There is a good bit of evidence that a lot of original barrels were not brown, they were left white and then gradually turned brown with age and use. That said, Laural Mountain makes a good easy to use browning solution. A good finish for a lock is phosphoric acid, which leaves sort of a dull gray antique looking finish. You can get it at the hardware store as rust remover.

If you want a good authentic stain for the wood, it is hard to beat aqua fortis. Swab it on and then hit it with a heat gun. It will immediately turn sort of a medium brown. If the first coat is not dark enough to suit your taste hit with a second. Be aware though that in a few weeks will darken even more.
 
Posts: 332 | Location: South Coast (MS) | Registered: 16 September 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Pilgrim
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I'm working on my 2nd TVM kit, the first barrel I browned with laural mountain cold brown. This time I think I'm going for a antique gray. I think it was someone on this forum that suggested I try browning first then going over that with cold blue. Tried it on a scrap piece and it looked good. When you stain the stock if you use oil based your purty much stuck with the color you get with the first coat. This time I'm going to try a water based stain. I read repeated coats will get darker. I tried the Tru-oil and it looked good but I decided to hit it with steel wool and then gun stock wax for a satin look. Hope this helps.
 
Posts: 82 | Location: north georgia | Registered: 12 April 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hivernant
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If you use a solvent based stain, you can do repeated applications. If you use a true oil-based stain (contains a drying oil) then you are correct about repeated applications not getting much darker (some but not much). Not all solvent stains contain oil; as a matter of fact, most solvent stains sold for gun stocks contain no drying oil (Muzzleloader Builders Supply Olde Town stains, Laurel Mountain Forge, etc.)


God Bless
Whisler
 
Posts: 123 | Location: Northern Kaintuckee | Registered: 21 December 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hivernant
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thanks, good advice. Brian, that grey thing sounds interesting, maybe I'll experiment. I've heard about aqua fortis, then does a finish or oil go over that?
 
Posts: 125 | Location: eden, utah | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hivernant
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Hawg:

Laurel Mountain has a really nice browning/degreasing solution that I've used on several guns. Give it a look.

Rio
 
Posts: 140 | Registered: 18 March 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Pilgrim
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I've not used aqua fortis but I think it's for color only. Something about applying the aqua fortis and then using heat to bring out the color.
 
Posts: 82 | Location: north georgia | Registered: 12 April 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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